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Balkan
Range (Stara Planina)
Stara Planina is like a backbone for Bulgaria. It separates the
country in two parts, stretching form its western border to the
Black sea. The high mountain range stops the strong western winds,
thus protecting the southern part of the country from their negative
influence. During the centuries Stara Planina has played the role
of natural hinder against enemies.
I remember how once I thought that the Balkan range consists mainly
of fine hills with grass and as such is of no interest for me. But
I also remember the first time, when I saw Rai (Paradise) Chalet
and Raiskoto Praskalo -the highest waterfall in Bulgaria. I was
so moved by this extraordinary beautiful view, that I thought "This
place really deserves its name". Huge meadows, 150m high rocks above
and the tiny white line of the waterfall. And it was so quiet and
peaceful... Years later I saw the other side of the ridge, which
impressed me even more. The endless abyss (There is a special word
for these abysses-dzandem) with its numerous waterfalls was a view
I had dreamed about. And now it was in front of me, shining on the
first day light...
The Balkan range is not only beautiful, but also ferocious! It is
notorious for its abrupt weather changes. The extremely strong Western
winds may bring dense fog and rain in less then half an hour!
Topography
Stara Planina covers a total area of 11,600
square kilometres, one tenth of Bulgaria's total land mass, and
stretches across the country from the Serbian border in the West
to the Black Sea in the East. Topographically the Stara Planina
can be subdivided into three sections, each composed of individual
massifs: Western Stara Planina, Central Stara Planina, and Eastern
Stara Planina. Western Stara Planina stretches for 190 kilometres
between the Belogradchik Pass and the Zlatitsa Pass, encompassing
an area of 4200 kilometres. Most famous and beautiful here is the
massif of Vrachanski Balkan. Central Stara Planina stretches for
185 kilometres. Its area is 3400 square kilometres. Here is the
highest peak in the range-Mt. Botev (2376 meters). Eastern Stara
Planina stretches for 155 kilometres between the Vramik Pass and
Cape Emine, encompassing an area of 4000 square kilometres. Its
average altitude is only 385 meters, the highest peak is Mt. Bulgarka
(1181 meters).
Climate
Running right across Bulgaria from west to east, Stara Planina acts
as a climatic barrier, having a profound influence on the climate
of the entire country. Not surprisingly, the range itself experiences
weather patterns that are extremely variable. Usually the cold and
wet western air masses leave a lot of their "burden" here. Thus
in Western and Central Stara Planina are measured some of the greatest
rainfalls for Bulgaria. The Balkan Range is also notorious for its
high winds. Mourgash and Botev peaks are the places with highest
average winds in the country. July and August are usually the warmest
months and January and February the coldest. Interestingly, autumn
tends to be somewhat warmer than spring. September is probably the
most settled month in which to visit these mountains. Winter is
usually cold, with very severe storms.
Accomodation
Generally the challets in Stara Planina are nice. In most you may
buy food and drinks.On the ridge there are a lot of refuges, but
some of them are not in good condition. Pitching tents is forbidden,
but no one will make a problem if you do that away from the chalets
and if you do not light fire. If you intend to sleep on tents, cary
good sleeping bags (comfort temperature around 0C), and avoid camping
near shepherds (their dogs can be nasty)! Also do not pitch tents
in the reserves. This may cause problems not only with rangers but
also with bears...
Water
Stara Planina is one of the richest in water mountains in Bulgaria.
Here there are numerous waterfalls and rivers. In Stara Planina
there are no lakes!
Anyway, if you are about to hike on the main ridge, better carry
drinking water.
Nature
Stara Planina has spots of truly untouched nature. This is due to
the very difficult approach to them. This has kept them away from
the influence of people. Today, most of these spots are declared
reserves, in which the best beech (Fagus sylvatica) forests in the
country are protected. The number of endangered species that are
met only here is very large. These reserves also give protection
to the wild life, which is quite varied. Central Stara Planina is
one of the main living spots of Brown bear in Bulgaria. They do
not attack people, but avoid staying nearby...
Maps
Good maps are those made for european route E8, section Kom-Emine.
For Central Balkan most reccomended map is that of Mountain Rescue
Service - Troyan. You can buy it in the bigger huts.
NOTE: According to us you should go in Bulgarian
mountains with an experienced
local mountain guide, who knows well the routes and snow conditions.
This will not only give you a possibility to use your time for better
runs, but also save you money
(guides can negotiate prices with locals better than a foreigner).
Guides also can always give good advises for local food, drinks
and customs and select best transport and accommodation possibilities.
Momchil
Panayotov
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